Tutorial for creating Chinese Fan

Experience level - Intermediate.

I used PSP 2018 but the tutorial can be followed in earlier versions of PSP.

Make sure you are using "Edit Mode"

SAVE OFTEN

Download zipfile of materials HERE

This will open a Google drive link.

Materials:

Preset Shape "jm_Chinese_fan_2.PspShape"

  Timber pattern "jm_light_timber"

Gradient "aqua hues"

Place Preset shape in PSP Files> Preset shapes folder.

Place timber texture in your PSP Files> patterns Folder

Place gradient in your gradients folder.

 Open image 1000 X 1000 pixels of any resolution that you wish, background, white.

Select Your preset shapes tool and choose the preset shape jm_Chinese_fan_2.PspShape from the shapes list. Make sure "retain style" is checked.

Hold down the shift key and draw out your shape. [This will maintain the proportions of your shape]

A new vector layer will automatically be created.

 Object align>centre in canvas:

Open your vector layers by clicking on tiny arrows indicated [+ sign in early versions of PSP]

Scroll down and select "group 3"

In the Selections menu select "Selection from Vector object"

 New Raster Layer.

And choosing your flood fill tool and material gradient "aqua hues", fill your selection.

Then close off the visibility of that layer.

Return to Vector Group 3, select the layer and with magic wand selection tool and these settings, select the lighter of the grey areas [Note that “Continuous” is NOT checked]:

Keep selection and return to Raster 1 layer and return visibility.

Adjust Brightness and Contrast:

Selection none.

The Struts of the fan [for want of a better name J]

 Return to your vector layer and select group labelled "back struts".

Selections> Selection from Vector layer and then layer > New Raster Layer label "fan struts back".

Use your fill tool to fill selection with your timber pattern.

Deselect.

Return to your vector group of back struts, open and select the bottom most strut in the layer.

Section from Vector object.

Return to raster layer with timber flood filled back struts and apply bevel.

 Effects>3D effects> inner bevel with these settings:

Rounded bevel, width 4 smoothness 0 depth 3 Ambience 100 Shininess 0 Color white angle 314 intensity 30 elevation 25.

To save  a LOT of angst and time,  now saved a quick script.

Make sure your History palette is visible [ F3] and holding down the shift key select the last three actions and hit the save button:

Return to your Vector layer and select the next strut in the group [2nd bottom]

Hit the "run" button of your quick script:

Continue selecting each strut in turn and use your quick script until you come to last strut in "pile":

Deselect.

By applying the bevel in this manner rather than to the whole layer as one effect, you can get a sense of the different layers of the struts.

As you can see, the strut on the far right hand side should sit on top of the fan material.

It too will need to be filled and bevelled.

Return to Vector layer and select the sublayer "top strut"

Selection from Vector layer, new raster layer and fill timber pattern as before and apply same bevel:

Select None. Bring layer to the top and rename "top strut".

Return to vector layer and select sublayer "pin", create selection from vector layer, new raster layer, fill and apply bevel.

Move layer to top.

Deselect.

Close visibility of background and vector layer and merge raster layers.[merge visible]

You are left with 3 layers.[two not visible]

Crop and save image as .pspimage or transparent.png image and decorate as you wish.

My decoration was applied as an "overlay" layer to maintain the shadowing effect.

Please feel free to use your own materials and experiment with different bevel settings etc.

Comments welcome!

Judy

In the image below I have used different materials and lowered the opacity of the @material@ layer of the fan before decorating and  merging.

Monochrome Images using Black and White Film Filter and Colorize

There are many reasons for creating a monochrome image, not the least being to be able to then  blend an image  into a larger background such as in an album page.

I find that creating a good quality BW image first and then recoloring creates a better final image compared with simply colorizing.

Later versions of PSP have an excellent filter, Black and White film which I use a lot.

The filter works in a similar manner to splitting channels where you can select the best image from one or a combination of the channels with the added advantage of an ability to alter the brightness and clarity at the same time.

You will find the filter under effects > photo effects > Black and white film.

It is best to begin any alterations with the values in a neutral position [factory default]:

If you then hit the "suggest color" button, that might be all you need to do before tweaking the brightness and clarity.

In the image of the Moorcroft vase below, I used these settings. - The suggested colour didn't give enough definition of the "beak" area on the puffin.

You can see an improvement using the BW film filter compared with simply desaturating the image:

The filter allows a lot of manipulation in one action. In this case I didn't make use of the colour wheel but that would be ideal in many images.

It is then a simple matter to colorize. [ Adjust > Hue and Saturation > colorize]

On the image below I used different settings to maintain the softness.

Colorized to Sepia Colour [You could use the photo effects > sepia but Colorizing gives more options]:

Old photos often have different "sepia" colours which seldom combine well on a page. By using the BW film filter on them first, then recolouring them with the same settings the result can be more pleasing. 

You can be pretty creative too, combining different monochrome images in the one layout:

Judy

Postage Cancellation Mark using Text on a Path

I found this method works well for me. It enabled me to place my text very accurately and I was also left with a template that I could use again and again.

The resulting postmark will be close to an inch in diameter at 300 ppi but can easily be enlarged or reduced without degradation. 

*************************************************************

New image white raster background 400 X 400 at 300 ppi

Turn on grid [View Grid] set at 50 pixels vertically and horizontally

Select Ellipse tool> circle Background null, Foreground Black #000000 Line width 3 pixels and draw a circle starting with your cursor at 50, 50 and ending at 350, 350 Check that the circle is centred.

Edit> Copy this layer. Edit> Paste as a new layer and Image resize [all layers unchecked] 90%

Objects > Convert to path. Rename layer Circle one.

 Again Edit> paste as a new layer - this will paste your original circle from the clipboard as a new layer.

Image resize 75% and again convert to path. Rename Circle two.

 We are going to place our text neatly between these 2 latter circles, leaving a gap between the text and outer circle.

Make sure your uppermost layer [smallest circle] is selected and choose your text tool.

Foreground null and background black #000000. Find a suitable Font, size 35-36.  A Blocky fonts work best. I used Bodini MT with alignment centre.

Make sure also that your text "Offset Setting" is set at 0. [Often this setting is obscured on the extreme right hand side of the toolbar.]

Place your cursor as close to "12 o'clock" as you can.

 Type your text. 

 Click apply and carefully shift to horizontal centre if it is a bit out of plumb using the grid lines as a guide :) The text may slightly rotate as you move it.

Now return to the first inner circle [Circle one] on the layer below and making sure that the circle layer itself is selected use your pen tool to edit the path to go in an anticlockwise direction. Right click and "Reverse Path"

Select text tool and with cursor in "6 o'clock" position type text using the same settings. Zoom in and carefully centre as before. [The text will slide into position nicely]

Now turn off the visibility of both inner circles:

New Vector Layer and print time and date in the Centre:

You can make sure it is centred perfectly by Objects>align> centre in canvas.

This is how it will appear on a printed page at 300ppi:

Save your image as a .pspimage and then you can edit size and any of the text and materials as you wish. I suggest that you use an installed font if you do so.

 I usually prefer a grungy look when using in an image – achieved by using materials with texture.

I also like using a cancellation stamp as a label :) – it is very adaptable J